So, for the longest time, I have had the exhaust freed up but hadn't touched the intake side other than a cheesy cold air intake. The reason for this is simple. I learned a long time ago that any "one" bolt on mod, isn't going to make a big deal by itself. So, a bigger mass air flow isn't going to make a difference with out a bigger throttle body. A T.B. with out an intake is near useless and, so on down the line. Pretty soon you wind up with a whole long list of "upgrades" for about 20ish horsepower. As I try to keep this on a budget (with varying amounts of success), It can take quite a bit of time to gather up all the parts. In the mean time, I like to tinker with stock parts to see what else can be done to improve them. A couple of years ago, I found a stock lower intake on eBay for $.01. Yea, that's right one red, lousy cent :) So, after reading quite a bit on line, (lots from a guy named "TMoss") I decided to give hand porting a try to see if any gains could be made. The great part is if I screwed it up or there was no improvement, I lost nothing. Porting the intake could be a blog unto itself but this was about 3 years ago and Mr Moss does a wonderful job explaining it so I will skip it for the time being. Suffice it to say that I did feel a noticeable improvement! It's not HUGE but if I had to guess by my finely tuned "butt meter", Id say it was about10 HP or so. It took quite a while to do but part of that was because it was my first time, I wasn't under any "deadline" and I wore out two dremmel tools and 5-6 bits getting it done. Lots of what you read on line recommends air tools for the job. I'd bet that's a good idea. As my air compressor was (and is) K.I.A. I used the electric. It works just fine and may even be easier to maneuver but tends to wear out the electric brushes. The results, were NOT spectacular but as no one was going to see it, I wasn't REAL worried about it. I am willing to bet that if you have more talent and patience than me, your results would be even better.
Along with this, I modified a 65mm throttle body from an Explorer (Exploder?) This seemed to be a simple and economical mod but I wasn't real happy with it. First, on 94 - 95 intakes, Ford moved one of the mounting bolts outward by about an 1/8th of an inch (JUST to screw with us... they HATE it when you can improve their products without giving them any money. This is probably most of the reason I enjoy doing it so much! :D ) Second, it didn't seem to give any noticeable improvement. Last, it actually made the car idle rougher and respond worse to the throttle. I ended up buying the Professional products 70 mm TB and it works much better. That seems to be a reoccurring theme, as much fun as it is to modify something, in this day and age, it seems there is always someone who has actually ENGINEERED a better piece. Not always as fulfilling but usually LOTS easier!
Been a long time since I have added to this. Honestly, forgot where I was trying to go with it. I think the point being from the last rant was that I figured that if the engineered throttle body was better than the "farmer engineered" version then maybe an engineered intake would be better than the ported, stock intake. I decided on the Professional Products "Typhoon" for a few reasons: they work well with other wise stock engines, they are, honestly, rip offs of the Edelbrock "Performer" intake, so you know the engineering is good and they are reasonably priced. And honestly, it was a gift as well so that makes the price that much better ;). The instillation was fairly strait forward. The biggest concerns were that I forgot to order the upper / lower plenum gasket. As I am not a patient person, gasket maker silicone worked until the gaskets came in. The next concern is that the lower intake should be torqued 3X. Once upon initial instillation (actually that is a 3 step process as well, building up in increments to the final torque), a 2nd time after the engine has heat cycled and then a final torque after about a week. The upper intake plenum has to be removed for this but that is simple. Torquing the lower isn't difficult then, just time consuming. The last concern was that the adapter for the throttle position mount was drilled backwards so that it could not be aligned properly. I ought to take a picture to put on here of it. I had to "glue" it in the correct position. I still need to get a picture to Professional Products too so I can get a correctly manufactured part. The glue works fine but looks like hell.
Recently, our local Mustang club had a "dyno day" 3 pulls for $50.00. The mustang pulled 219 RWHP @ 5500 RPM. This is where the "Yea, but what ifs" come in: I found that the mixture was WAY rich (evidently, jumping out the Air Inlet Temperature sensor isn't all it's cracked up to be. Don't ever do it.) With the sensor put back to stock, I should pick up 10 HP. That's 229. Then, take out drive line loss and that's about 272 at the crank. Last, the conversion to standard weather conditions ought to be good for 10 HP, right? So, I can call that 282 HP at the crank and ALMOST keep a strait face doing it. I understand that a fairly big step from a verified 219 WHP and it is a long shot from the 430 of the new Laguna Seca edition Boss Mustang. It is believable though. And Crank HP can't be proved with out pulling the motor and putting it on an eddy current dyno (not going to happen any time soon). So, as soon as I get back to a dyno, Ill post the print out.
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