Suspension mods on the Miata

Got the opportunity to redo the suspension on my Dads Miata recently.  THESE are the jobs I love the best! Not my car, not my parts, not my cash. Yet, I get to do the work! :D  I wish I got the chance to do more of this kind of stuff.  Dad kept thanking me and I honestly felt like it should have been the other way around! 

Anyway, on to the actual work.  NOT difficult at all.  That is the take away from this project.  If you are patient, anyone can do it!  Second take away: If you are going to go to the trouble of replacing the shocks (Koni Yellow, Single adjustable, now) go ahead and replace the springs too.  The stock spring rates are MUCH too soft. 

Next take away:  The Koni's come with three spring perch settings. "Stock height" is the middle one.  That's where they are set when they arrive. LEAVE THEM THERE!  This is especially true if your going to use the stock springs.  With them at the lowest settings, the tires will rub in the fender wells HARD when you stuff it into a corner and you will end up putting those spring spacers in there to bolster the springs until you can get the time to do it right. 

Another take away: If you are replacing the bushings, having a machine press is VERY helpful!  You can do it without the press but, the job is time consuming enough, spend the money and get the press.  I don't use it that often but when I do, it's indispensable!  ONE trip to a machine shop is typically more expensive than a 12 ton bottle jack press.

You are also going to need an air compressor with a impact wrench and spring compressors. The spring compressors are down at your local auto parts store. Unless you plan on doing this a lot, just borrow theirs.

Next little tip:  The Miata comes with eccentric bolts on the suspension mounts for caster, camber, toe adjustments.  Before you loosen the first bolt, mark them ALL!  It won't keep you from needing an alignment but, it will make your suspension guy's job alot easier than the way I did it (took the poor guy 2+ hours and I still had to take it back to my "regular" guy the next day.  It could have been that the 1st guy was incompetent but, I don't normally have problems with this place and I prefer to give him the benefit of the doubt.

Last, when you are ordering all the parts, don't forget to order the dust covers for the shocks.  They have the bump stops on them.  PLEASE don't ask me how I know this is so important.....  Also, the top stem on the Koni's is thicker than stocks so you will have to drill out the top of the spring mounts and the top of the dust cover / bump stops.  When drilling through the top washer on the bump stop, remember to spray it with water or a cooling fluid frequently.  Otherwise, it will melt whatever glue they fastened it to the top of the stop with.

The "complete" kit also comes with bushings for the rear diff.  I didn't replace these (4).  The reason is basically because it looks like a HUGE pain in the butt and I can't figure out what benefit there would be to replacing them on such a low horse power application anyway.  If I was THAT concerned with getting every last pony to the pavement, there are LOTS of other places I would start!  The only thing replacing those would have gained us in this application is alot of N.V.H. (Noise, Vibration & Harshness).  Dad drives the car everywhere. I wanted to make sure it was pleasant as a daily driver. 

The bushing part of the job is simply taking the pieces off, pushing out the old bushings out LUBING the new bushings, and pressing them back in.  The only exception to this is the sway bar end links.  Those are glued in.  Still, no big deal.  Simply press them out with a socket then, take a torch to the race to burn out the remaining rubber / adhesive.  Again, don't forget the lube included in the kit or the bushings bind and squeak and basically, suck.  I figured that part out the 1st time I did the bushings on the Mustang.  Yea, the FIRST time.  There is never enough time to do a job right but, there is always enough time to do it over.

Those are really the only things to look out for when rebuilding the suspension.  The rest is simple unbolt and bolt back together.  The axle bolts are a pain in the butt to get off but that's to be expected.  There are LOTS of bolts and LOTS of bushings to press out / in but none of it is difficult.  Don't let it scare you.  Think about what your going to do, where your going to put parts / tools so that you don't spend alot of time looking for stuff that was JUST there a minute ago (probably the most frustrating part of any job you don't prepare properly) and be prepared to spend quite a bit of time on it, especially if your are doing it by yourself.  I spent probably 5 days getting it done.  If I were to do it again, I ll bet it would take me 3.

When we were done, we took it down to the local suspension place to have a performance alignment put on. As mentioned above, it took them two tries to get it right but it was worth it. The car still leans WAY too much in the corners but new springs and sway bars will handle that. It soaks up mid corner bumps much better and turns in quicker. Like any car (in our house) it is a work in progress. Dad LOVES driving it and that is most important!




My Dad at his 1st autocross.  Took him 67 years but, I think he liked it!




My wife driving Dad's car




Due to space constraints, I chose to do one corner at a time.  If I had the space, it might have gone qicker if I could have done all the bushings at once.




Not as messy as it looks....seriously.




Too late to turn back now.




First corner




Yea, the Mustang is going to have to come out while I'm working.....



Typhoon intake / intake mods

So, for the longest time, I have had the exhaust freed up but hadn't touched the intake side other than a cheesy cold air intake.  The reason for this is simple.  I learned a long time ago that any "one" bolt on mod, isn't going to make a big deal by itself.  So, a bigger mass air flow isn't going to make a difference with out a bigger throttle body.  A T.B. with out an intake is near useless and, so on down the line.  Pretty soon you wind up with a whole long list of "upgrades" for about 20ish horsepower.  As I try to keep this on a budget (with varying amounts of success), It can take quite a bit of time to gather up all the parts.  In the mean time, I like to tinker with stock parts to see what else can be done to improve them.  A couple of years ago, I found a stock lower intake on eBay for $.01.  Yea, that's right one red, lousy cent :)  So, after reading quite a bit on line, (lots from a guy named "TMoss") I decided to give hand porting a try to see if any gains could be made.  The great part is if I screwed it up or there was no improvement, I lost nothing.  Porting the intake could be a blog unto itself but this was about 3 years ago and Mr Moss does a wonderful job explaining it so I will skip it for the time being.  Suffice it to say that I did feel a noticeable improvement!  It's not HUGE but if I had to guess by my finely tuned "butt meter", Id say it was about10 HP or so.  It took quite a while to do but part of that was because it was my first time, I wasn't under any "deadline" and I wore out two dremmel tools and 5-6 bits getting it done.  Lots of what you read on line recommends air tools for the job.  I'd bet that's a good idea.  As my air compressor was (and is) K.I.A. I used the electric.  It works just fine and may even be easier to maneuver but tends to wear out the electric brushes.  The results, were NOT spectacular but as no one was going to see it, I wasn't REAL worried about it.  I am willing to bet that if you  have more talent and patience than me, your results would be even better.

Along with this, I modified a 65mm throttle body from an Explorer (Exploder?)  This seemed to be a simple and economical mod but I wasn't real happy with it.  First, on 94 - 95 intakes, Ford moved one of the mounting bolts outward by about an 1/8th of an inch (JUST to screw with us... they HATE it when you can improve their products without giving them any money.  This is probably most of the reason I enjoy doing it so much! :D  ) Second, it didn't seem to give any noticeable improvement.  Last, it actually made the car idle rougher and respond worse to the throttle.  I ended up buying the Professional products 70 mm TB and it works much better.  That seems to be a reoccurring theme, as much fun as it is to modify something, in this day and age, it seems there is always someone who has actually ENGINEERED a better piece.  Not always as fulfilling but usually LOTS easier!

Been a long time since I have added to this.  Honestly, forgot where I was trying to go with it.  I think the point being from the last rant was that I figured that if the engineered throttle body was better than the "farmer engineered" version then maybe an engineered intake would be better than the ported, stock intake.  I decided on the Professional Products "Typhoon" for a few reasons:  they work well with other wise stock engines, they are, honestly, rip offs of the Edelbrock "Performer" intake, so you know the engineering is good and they are reasonably priced.  And honestly, it was a gift as well so that makes the price that much better ;).  The instillation was fairly strait forward.  The biggest concerns were that I forgot to order the upper / lower plenum gasket.  As I am not a patient person, gasket maker silicone worked until the gaskets came in.  The next concern is that the lower intake should be torqued 3X.  Once upon initial instillation (actually that is a 3 step process as well, building up in increments to the final torque), a 2nd time after the engine has heat cycled and then a final torque after about a week.  The upper intake plenum has to be removed for this but that is simple.  Torquing the lower isn't difficult then, just time consuming.  The last  concern was that the adapter for the throttle position mount was drilled backwards so that it could not be aligned properly.  I ought to take a picture to put on here of it.  I had to "glue" it in the correct position.    I still need to get a picture to Professional Products too so I can get a correctly manufactured part.  The glue works fine but looks like hell. 

Recently, our local Mustang club had a "dyno day" 3 pulls for $50.00.  The mustang pulled 219 RWHP @ 5500 RPM.  This is where the "Yea, but what ifs" come in:  I found that the mixture was WAY rich (evidently, jumping out the Air Inlet Temperature sensor isn't all it's cracked up to be. Don't ever do it.)  With the sensor put back to stock, I should pick up 10 HP.  That's 229.  Then, take out drive line loss and that's about 272 at the crank.  Last, the conversion to standard weather conditions ought to be good for 10 HP, right? So, I can call that 282 HP at the crank and ALMOST keep a strait face doing it.  I understand that a fairly big step from a verified 219 WHP and it is a long shot from the 430 of the new Laguna Seca edition Boss Mustang.  It is believable though.  And Crank HP can't be proved with out pulling the motor and putting it on an eddy current dyno (not going to happen any time soon). So, as soon as I get back to a dyno, Ill post the print out.

What's in The Stable now

Actually, this probably won't change that much.  I tend to get attached to vehicles.  When you bleed on them enough they become family, I guess.  I am jealous of those of you out there that can "upgrade" every couple of years (or less).  Life would probably be a lot simpler if I could  bring myself to do the same.

Anyway, without further aduix (or however you spell that):

1995 Mustang GTS
This is the LX 5.0 of the 90s if anyone remembers those.  This is our Autocross toy and my most heavily modified vehicle. The engine internals are stock and probably will remain so as we have a hankerin' for the new 5.0 in the 2011 Mustang's. Probably keep the car and just swap engines. THAT should give me plenty to write about, eh?
So far we have added sub frame connectors, H&R Super sport springs, Polly bushings, braided steal brake lines, drilled / slotted rotors. EBC "yellow stuff" pads, boxed the stock upper control arms, added camber plates and a "MAC" strut tower brace (more on that in an upcoming blog. suffice it to say, I don't recommend them). There is probably more but that's all the chassis stuff I can remember right now.
As for the engine, it has under drive pulleys, "MAC" shorty headers (I don't really recommend these either. notice a trend?) a "UPR" off road "X" pipe, "Flowmaster 40s", "EBay" cold air intake, 70MM Mas Air Flow Sensor, 24lb injectors, 70MM "Professional Products" Throttle body, a "Typhoon" intake (It's Professional Products rip off of Vic Edelbrock's "Performer" intake.... sorry Vic, your stuff was WAY more expensive and this was a gift), 160* thermostat and bumped timing (I forget bumped to what, Ill have to add that later) .
What's next? Good question.  It has SO MUCH more I am wanting to do to it that will allow me to stay in class (except for the engine that'll kick me WAY up the scale, if I do it) and truthfully, I am starting to hanker for another car.  My Dad just bought an old Miata and while I haven't driven HIS yet, I did drive a couple while we were looking for his and I LOVED them! NO power but, I can't think of a time you would have to take your foot off the floor for anything! They corner like a cat on shag. 
Back to the question at hand though, the Mustang needs a Panhard Bar, a torque arm, a short throw shifter, race seats, and a tune.  Waffling between the tune and the panhard bar at this point.  I think either would be as effective curing different problems at this point.  It'll probably come down to what ever I can get the best deal on. OH and TIRES!  It's been 2 years since I had a good set of race tires.  I am beginning to miss them. I am partial to the Hoosier A6s but if your not careful with them, you can cord them easy.  Until my wife gets a bit farther along (sorry if your reading this, Hon. I LOVE YOU), I think we'll stick to the street tires.



There is also a 1986 Yamaha FJ1200 that I have had since...1997, I think.  See, told you I get attached.  I have been through the carburetors on this thing so many times, I could do them blindfolded.  The main reason for that is because I am too lazy to drain them at the end of the (painfully short) season.  I used to ride this from Logan, UT to Boise, ID every other weekend for about 3 years so, it has racked up some miles. It really is a member of the family at this point, I can't imagine ever getting rid of it.  The eventual goal with this is a complete restore / resto-mod.  I want people to walk by it and go "hey! that looks like the one I used to have! Wait, no it doesn't... what's different?"  Right now, it is pretty tattered.  Compression on the 2 middle cylinders is about mid range and pretty good for a bike this old. Number 1 is PERFECT and number 4 is down to 70 psi.  I can't believe it still fires at all.  Believe it or not, it still pulls pretty hard but will pop out of 2nd (shift forks were a known problem) when you grab a hand full and burns more oil than a 2-stroke!  It didn't get ridden at all last year because it is embarrassing how much work it needs.  This year, it will probably get ridden more just because I can't stand looking at everyone else ride for another year.  Eventually (hopefully soon) we'll add a 1250 Bandit to the mix then this will be a full time project.

(Too embarrassing to add a pic)
Then there is the1983 Yamaha YZ125 basket case that may never make it back together. Originally, this was supposed to be a learner bike for the kids but, well things don't always go as we plan, do they?  Now it sits forlorn in the corner.  When I get a wild hair up my nose, I sit and fiddle with it for a bit.  Someday, I might get it together enough to teach the wife how to ride. The most upsetting part is that when that bike was new, I thought it was the ULTIMATE motorcycle (yea, I was pretty young).  To see it neglected in the corner is sickening.  Young me would kick old (er) me square in the ...... well, you get the point.



I am also going to include my Dad's Miata.  No, it isn't mine but, I have a feeling it is going to spend a lot of time in my stable.  We just replaced the top on it earlier this week (another upcoming rant into the cyberabyss).  Honestly, it wasn't NEARLY as hard as people make it out to be.  As soon as you get your head around how it all goes together, it becomes pretty simple, if time consuming.  This is MUCH easier as a 2 person job though.  It is probably doable as a 1 person job but...I sure wouldn't want to do it!  Next week ( I think) Dad is driving it down to park in the stable when they fly out to California.  While they are gone for two weeks, I get to replace all the suspension bushings and install some adjustable Koni Yellows...Yummy! After that's done, we take it in for a performance alignment (0 toe & 1.4 total static camber) and then to the nearest autocross so it can be "driven in anger" in a safe environment.  It ought to change direction quicker than a politician and hang on corners... WELL!  We took it out and drove it pretty hard (for on the street) before we started the top. Even bone stock and 16 years old, it hangs really well.  A couple of simple mods and it should be phenomenal!  Good choice Dad!

Then we have the daily drivers: F150 and Focus. There might be a blurb in here off and on if there is nothing else to write about but... can't imagine that will happen often.

Welcome to "The Stable"

The stable is what my wife and I call our garage. The reason is because we love horses.  She loves "pony cars" (Mustangs)  I prefer "stallions" (Ferraris).  We both love motorcycles as well so, everything in our garage seems to be "horse" related.  Now, it is true that I don't own a Ferrari (yet) but that is a temporary problem that will one day be rectified. 

The reason for starting this post is simple:  It seems that I spend most of my life in my "Stable".  I wouldn't have it any other way!  I LOVE tinkering with ANYTHING if I feel it might go, stop and especially turn better when I am done.  During the course of my tinkerings I often wonder if there is an "easier" way to get some task accomplished or if there is a better tool to be using than the BFH (Big Freakin' Hammer) I tend to gravitate towards when frustrated!  So, if you DO wander back to this little corner of the web in the future, what you will find is most likely a run down of what ever project I am undertaking at the moment along with a review of how whatever part I installed or modification I have made is working out.

During these posts I will most likely have some question about how something goes back together.  It always seems that nothing ever fits the way it is supposed to and it is always the LAST piece you need to install that holds the whole project up!  That might cause me to wander off into a separate post about how to make things right which will THEN lead to some little nugget of information to make the job easier.  It is my hope that you can learn from my mistakes (I make a lot of them) and, if you know an easier way to do something than the way I am going about it, PLEASE let me know!  I will pass it along and hopefully it will be useful to lots of fellow Gear Heads! 

If you look around on line, you will no doubt notice that there are all sorts of sites out there that have "Tech" or "Help" sections.  Most of those tend to lean towards a specific "Make" or type of vehicle.  Initially, this will probably do the same out of necessity.  Hopefully however, it will branch off to a more general maintenance help site.  Lots of the "techniques" you use to fix a Mustang, for instance will work just as well on a Camaro, Challenger or Civic.  In my mind, garage projects are like ice cream.  Everyone has different tastes.  When it comes right down to it, one isn't any "better" than the other.  To steal a line from motorcycling: It isn't WHAT your wrenching on, it's THAT your wrenching that matters.  Hopefully, y'all will agree.

So pull up a stool, grab a cold one, turn up the radio and hang out.  I'm sure Ill break something any moment now.....